So early on, he asked what guidelines I wanted him to adhere to, so I told him to just keep everything somewhat compatible with each other, and try to minimize weight and loss of build area. Now Jake Allen was back to the group as “He bought a Troodon since he previously had one at work, but then no longer had access so he had stepped back.” He wanted to collaborate, so we sent him everything and I started working with Jake and Tom at the same time. We achieved the goal, but we still had the crap cable chain. My main goals were that I wanted to not lose build space, and I wanted to have the dual hotends weigh close to or less than the stock. Also we stepped up the size of the rail to increase accuracy at the same time. We proceeded to design a gantry upgrade that incorporated the New 2.4 belt path that I had been running a version of, with a floating rail to reduce weight. I also had been running my stock rail on it’s side. So I then talked to Tom Jones again, and this time felt I would be able to figure the control scheme out for the second extruder, without replacing the board. I found that no matter what, if I lifted the cable chain by hand, I could measure close to a millimeter of deviation with a laser attached to the hotend. The stock setup has a long moment arm and adding the DDE (direct drive extruder) increases the slop, “depending on other factors anywhere from a little to a very large amount that manifests as banding and ugly walls.” So, fast forward I figured out Klipper and got RRF3 working properly, and during this I tried over 500 dollars in rails from Amazon and AliExpress to Hiwinn, Ldo and THK. This is all because of a few things, including partially user error due to lack of instructions. The main issue was the cable chain, which then magnified other issues, such as the play in the guide. Most troublesome was the constant required attention. I was able to get amazing prints, but it took excessive calibration and attention to detail. I focused on Klipper and RRF3 while trying simplify things, to improve prints. The dual extruder got put on hold because the stock Troodon board was limiting. I also had been working on cable chain modifications and fixing the printer’s other shortcomings. Proceed with running the install commands (from above links) and you should be good to go.Ī few months ago, I got the idea for a dual extrusion setup that would reuse a lot of the stock components, and talked to Tom Jones and a few others about it.If you sanded your cable (or bought the correct one) then it will power up, if not nothing will happen.Finally mount the PI stand off and RaspberryPi onto the mounting studs on the back of screen & plug it in.The 2 holes on either side of the mount are for you to design & mount your own tool/flashlight/screwdriver/etc mounts….Lastly, there are two holes, at an angle, that are made for M3x14mm bolts, this will securely hold the two halves together.Now slide the bottom piece on and align the holes and install the last two long M2.5 Phillips bolts from the kit.Next, gently slide the partial assembly through the backside of the front black acrylic.Then lineup the top mounting holes and screw in 2 of the longer M2.5 Phillips bolts provided in the kit.When you install the screen into this mount, side it in at an angle with the USB port nested in the cutout.If that is too much work for you, just search type B DSI on the Google Machine and purchase one. I simply took a normal Raspi Cam cable, clipped off the blue tag (heat gun to remove and super glue on opposite side) then took some sand paper to expose the pins on the opposite side. ![]() Make sure you have tested your Raspi Klipper Screen for functionality, if you plug in the DSI cable and nothing happens, you likely have a Type-A cable (Pins on side 1 at one end, Pins on side 2 at other end) but this screen needs a Type-B DSI cable.Start by removing front Black acrylic panel with existing PanelDue and remove 4 Phillips M3 bolts, save the 4x Phillips M3 bolts for later.
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